This was our first trip to Japan and we decided to follow the classic first-timer’s route — Tokyo, Kyoto, and Osaka. I had grand ambitions of hunting down every fountain pen store, limited-edition ink, and stationery shop in the country… but honestly, researching them all beforehand was overwhelming.
So, I gave myself a break and kept things simple: enjoy the main tourist stops, dip my toes into Japan’s stationery scene, and leave the deep cuts for our next visit — yes, we’ve already decided there will be a next visit.
Tokyo — Shinjuku, Skyscrapers & Stationery
We stayed at Keio Plaza Hotel Tokyo in the lively Shinjuku district — one of Tokyo’s busiest hubs, full of skyscrapers, neon-lit streets, and an endless choice of shops and restaurants. At its heart is Shinjuku Station, the busiest train station in the world, with 3–4 million passengers passing through daily. It’s an impressive maze — you quickly learn to follow the signs and not rely on Google directions due to poor signals underground (and summon your patience — allow plenty of time).
Arrival Day
Our adventure began before we even left Narita Airport. First stop: Traveler’s Factory Narita Airport, Terminal 1, 4th floor (next to McDonald’s) — a small but perfectly stocked shop with exclusive airport-only items. Obviously I picked up the airport exclusives, which at this store were pre-packed gift bundles (1 x Regular TN & 1 x Passport TN) — only one per customer.
We took the Narita Express (NEX) from Terminal 1 to Tokyo Station, which of course meant a visit to Traveler’s Factory Tokyo Station — a cosy space tucked into the station’s underground mall, perfect for picking up location exclusives.
On our way out, we stumbled across Maruzen — famous for its extensive fountain pen range, shelves of inks, and timeless Japanese notebooks. A happy accident! But we were all too tired so no time for shopping — we found a taxi and off to the hotel.
Day One
We started the morning with a visit to Starbucks Reserve Roastery, Nakameguro, arriving early to beat the crowds. Pro tip: secure your seats, order your drinks and food, then browse the Starbucks-exclusive Traveler’s Factory merchandise (something we did not do and struggled to find seating as it got busy fast).
We followed this with a visit to Traveler’s Factory Nakameguro — a small, rustic space in a quieter part of the city, perfect for browsing. Be aware it does not open until 12:00pm and there are not many places to escape the outdoor heat if you arrive a little too early. I was surprised that there were no store or Tokyo exclusives here.
Evening was for Sekaido, Shinjuku — a five-floor art supply paradise. I picked up three fountain pens (Pilot Custom 743, black Pilot Elite, and clear Pilot Kakuno), plus an exclusive Sekaido ink.
Day Two
We took a Mount Fuji day trip to some of the area’s best viewpoints. Sadly, the peak stayed hidden behind clouds most of the day, but we caught a brief glimpse as we were leaving.
After the day trip, we were dropped back at Mode Gakuen Cocoon Tower and decided to find somewhere to eat before heading to the hotel. On the way, we stumbled upon #1 Bookstore — an unexpected gem filled with beautiful art books, premium stationery (fountain pens, Plotter, premium notebooks), and high-quality sketching supplies. We didn’t manage to make it back during this trip, but it’s absolutely worth a visit if you find yourself in the area.
Day Three
Another visit to the Starbucks Reserve Roastery was in order — partly for the coffee and breakfast and partly for one last browse through their beautifully designed merchandise.
From there, we headed to Shibuya Scramble Crossing. Even in the morning, it was absolute chaos in the best possible way. We arrived before 10am, when most of the shops were still closed — if you’re planning to shop in that area, it’s best to time your visit for later in the day.
Our final stop for today was Itoya, Ginza — Japan’s stationery temple. Twelve glorious floors dedicated to pens, paper, and customisation services. If you can imagine it, Itoya probably has it. I picked up a Pilot Custom 912 <SM>, with the chance to try out and compare a wide range of nibs. The staff were incredibly knowledgeable and patient. I also grabbed a couple of Itoya-exclusive inks and a box of Iroshizuku Shin-Ryoku cartridges. Honestly, I could have spent the entire day there… and a lot more money!
Day Four
We joined a half-day Tokyo city tour, booked via Klook:
- Imperial Palace Plaza & Nijubashi Bridge (the “double bridge”)
- Tokyo Tower — the city’s red-and-white Eiffel-style icon
- Sensō-ji Temple, Asakusa — Tokyo’s oldest and most famous temple, with its giant Kaminarimon Gate and bustling Nakamise shopping street
Evening: one last wander through Shinjuku after a quick Sekaido stop, ready for the next leg of our trip.
Kyoto — Tradition Meets Ink
We boarded the Shinkansen from Tokyo Station to Kyoto, booked through Klook to secure Mount Fuji-side seats. This time, she was in full view and glorious. As a treat, we booked Green Car tickets and picked up beautiful bento boxes from Tokyo Station’s food court. The two-hour journey flew by.
Our hotel, Hotel Granvia Kyoto, sits inside Kyoto Station and is perfectly placed for cafés, convenience stores, and train connections. Our room overlooked Kyoto Tower, which sparkles beautifully at night. Kyoto itself felt like another world compared to Tokyo — slower-paced, steeped in tradition, and with a calmer rhythm.
Day Five
Traveler’s Factory Kyoto — the largest and, in my opinion, the most atmospheric of the branches, with a warm, rustic charm.
Day Six
A sightseeing day trip to:
- Nara Park — with its famously friendly (and slightly pushy) deer
- Arashiyama Bamboo Grove — shady, peaceful, and otherworldly
- Fushimi Inari Taisha — walking through the endless red gates of the Senbon Torii is unforgettable
Day Seven — Kyoto Shopping Day
- Kyukyodo — Elegant paper shop with handmade stationery and a stunning wooden ceiling
- TAG Stationery — Famous for its Kyoto Ink series. I picked up a Pilot 823 Black Translucent, a couple of Kyoto-exclusive inks, and a Kleid notebook. Luggage getting heavier…
Day Eight
A morning walk to Miei-dō Temple and its neighbouring shrine before heading to Kyoto Station for our next hop.
Matcha in Kyoto is on another level — rich, smooth, and deeply flavoured. Kyoto’s Uji region produces some of Japan’s finest green tea, which is why matcha tastes so good here.
Osaka — Department Store Discoveries
We stayed at Hotel New Otani Osaka, overlooking Osaka-jo Hall and a short walk from Osaka Castle. Plenty of local food spots, plus three Starbucks within easy reach — Japan truly elevates Starbucks.
Day Nine
A short Shinkansen trip from Kyoto turned into a detour when we ended up at Shin-Osaka instead of Osaka Station, followed by a metro maze.
The night before, I’d watched The Wet Pen’s video recommending Hankyu Department Store for limited edition inks. The 8th-floor stationery section was worth the search — I left with a Platinum Curidas Stone and grabbed some exclusive inks.
Day Ten
Taxi to Namba Parks Shopping Centre, then Loft (4th floor) for our last stationery spree. Picked up several Kleid notebooks and back-to-school stationery for my daughter.
We then walked to Dotonbori — its neon signs and moving food displays are iconic. Tried takoyaki (octopus balls) from Juhachiban — crispy outside, molten inside, and packed with flavour. (Mistake going stationery shopping before walking to Dotonbori — those bags were heavy!)
Day Eleven
Evening visit to the Expo 2025 site. Entry was straightforward, but most large exhibits required pre-booked reservations and online registration was not straightforward, so a little disappointing. Still, the night views from the Expo’s towering ring structure were impressive.
Day Twelve
A relaxed morning breakfast near the hotel at R Baker (highly recommend), then a journal session using some of the stationery I’d collected. We finished with a walk to Osaka Castle — a historic landmark framed beautifully against the modern skyline.
Reflections & Future Plans
This trip was part sightseeing, part stationery pilgrimage — and we barely scratched the surface. The “big name” stores were easy to find and worth every moment, but next time I’ll be focusing on:
- Discovering smaller, independent stationery shops
- Meeting regional pen makers and local artisans (I’d really love to buy an Urushi pen in Japan next time)
- Attending a Japanese pen show — but only after a warm-up at the Singapore show to cheer on my friends from the UK Pen Shows 😉
- Spending more time exploring lesser-known spots and diving deeper into Japan’s historical sites
Travel Tips
- Don’t try to see every shop — you’ll burn out. Balance stationery with sightseeing.
- Group visits by area to save time and walking.
- Luggage transfer services between hotels are a game-changer — budget for them and allow a day for delivery.
- Don’t underestimate the convenience stores — Lawson’s, 7-Eleven and Family Mart are genuinely excellent.
- Leave plenty of room in your suitcase. Stationery is heavier than you think.
So that’s it — a whirlwind tour of our first visit to Japan, suitcases definitely heavier and minds blown.
